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Title:	Modeling waves, currents and sandbars on natural beaches: The effect of surface rollers
Author:	Ribas Prats, Francesca; Swart, Huib E. de; Calvete Manrique, Daniel; Falqués Serra, Albert
Other authors:	Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya. Departament de Física Aplicada; Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya. DF - Dinàmica No Lineal de Fluids
Abstract:	A morphodynamic model has been extended to gain more fundamental knowledge about the formation of nearshore sand bars. The model describes feedbacks between waves, rollers, depth-averaged currents and bed evolution, so that self-organized processes can develop. Offshore wave, wind and tide conditions and the bathymetry measured at Egmond site (the Netherlands) are firstly applied to compute the longshore current and wave height profiles.
Subject(s):	-Àrees temàtiques de la UPC::Enginyeria civil::Geologia -Sand bars--Forecasting -Coastal zone -Nearshore bars -Longshore currents -Waves on beaches -Rollers -Longshore sediment transport -Platges -- Erosió
Rights:	Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivs 3.0 Spain http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/3.0/es/
Document type:	Article - Published version Article
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